How to install skirting boards

[edit] Introduction

Fitting new skirting boards is one of the simplest ways to transform a room. Skirting covers the expansion gap between wall and floor, protects walls from scuffs and gives a room a clean, finished appearance. This article sets out the tools and materials required, how to measure and cut skirting boards, and the procedures for fitting PVC and flexible skirting using adhesive, along with common mistakes to avoid.

[edit] What you need before you start

Before fitting skirting boards, the following tools and materials should be gathered: a tape measure, pencil or marker, mitre saw or fine-tooth saw, mitre box (for accurate corner cuts), suitable skirting adhesive, a cleaning cloth and cleaning spray, caulk or filler (for finishing gaps), safety gloves and a spirit level. For flexible skirting boards, scissors or a utility knife are also needed, along with double-sided adhesive tape if this is not already pre-fitted to the product.

[edit] Measuring for skirting boards

Using a tape measure, the length of each wall should be measured individually at floor level where the skirting board will be fitted. Each measurement should be noted separately rather than relying on the total room perimeter, as corners require separate cuts. An extra 50–100mm should be added to each measurement to allow for cutting mitred corners accurately, since it is much easier to trim excess material than to extend a board that has been cut too short. Once the extra allowance has been added, the wall measurements can be totalled to calculate the overall length of skirting board required. Skirting boards are typically supplied in 2,200mm or 2,500mm lengths, or in continuous coils of up to 10 metres for flexible profiles, so the order should be planned to minimise joins.

[edit] Cutting skirting boards for corners

Getting the corner cuts right is the most important skill in a skirting board installation. For internal corners, where two walls meet at an inside angle, both pieces of board are cut at a 45-degree angle so that the front face of each cut is longer than the back; the two pieces are then offered up together to check that the join forms a neat 90-degree corner, with slight trimming carried out if needed for a tight fit. An alternative method for internal corners, often preferred for timber skirting, is to scribe the second board to match the profile of the first rather than mitring both pieces; this reduces the risk of the joint opening up if the timber shrinks. For external corners, where a wall projects outward, both pieces are cut at a 45-degree angle in the opposite direction to internal corners, so that the front face of each piece is shorter than the back at the cut; the fit should be tested before final positioning.

A mitre box holds the skirting board at the correct angle while cutting, helping to ensure accurate, repeatable 45-degree cuts. This is particularly useful for PVC skirting boards, which can be cut using a fine-tooth saw in combination with a mitre box. Corner pieces should generally be cut slightly longer than needed and then trimmed gradually until the joint sits correctly, since it is far easier to remove material than to add it back.

[edit] Installing PVC skirting boards

PVC skirting boards are lightweight, moisture-resistant and straightforward to fit using adhesive. The wall surface should first be cleaned thoroughly along the line where the skirting board will be fitted, removing dust, grease, old adhesive, wallpaper or loose paint, as the wall must be clean, dry and free of dust for the adhesive to bond properly. The wall run should then be measured and the board cut to length using a fine-tooth saw or mitre saw, with corner pieces cut at 45 degrees using a mitre box for accuracy. Before adhesive is applied, all cut pieces should be positioned along the wall as a dry fit to confirm that they fit correctly and that corner joins sit well, with any adjustments made at this stage.

A suitable mounting adhesive should then be applied to the back of the board in continuous beads, typically in a zigzag pattern across its full length to maximise contact with the wall. The board is pressed firmly into position, with its top edge aligned carefully along a level line, and can be fitted at a right angle to adjoining boards or at other angles as required by the layout of the room. The board should be held in place while the adhesive begins to cure; masking tape can assist with this. Any excess adhesive should be removed immediately with a clean cloth, and the adhesive should be left to cure fully in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

[edit] Installing flexible skirting boards

Flexible skirting boards are suited to curved walls, bay windows and other irregular layouts, and are typically supplied in continuous lengths of up to 10 metres. Before fitting, the material should be allowed to acclimatise at room temperature, around 20°C, as this improves its flexibility and adhesion. The wall and floor surfaces should be cleaned and degreased thoroughly along the full length of the run, and the skirting board cut to the required length using scissors or a utility knife; no specialist tools are required for cutting flexible profiles.

Double-sided adhesive tape or a suitable assembly adhesive should be applied to the back of the profile if it is not already supplied with an adhesive backing. The board is then pressed firmly along the wall-floor line, shaping it around curves, bay windows or corners as required; the flexible construction allows it to follow the contour of the wall. It should be held or taped in place while the adhesive bonds, which is particularly important on curved sections where the material has a tendency to spring back towards its original shape.

[edit] Finishing

Once the skirting boards are fitted and the adhesive has cured, a flexible decorator's caulk can be used to fill any small gaps between the skirting board and the wall, and at mitred corner joints, to give a seamless finish. Where paintable materials such as MDF or timber skirting have been used, the caulk should be allowed to dry fully before painting; PVC and polystyrene skirting boards are normally supplied pre-finished and do not require painting. Any masking tape should be removed and the skirting boards wiped down with a clean, damp cloth to remove dust or adhesive residue.

[edit] Common mistakes to avoid

A number of mistakes are commonly made when fitting skirting boards. Failing to clean the wall surface properly, leaving dust, grease or old adhesive in place, significantly reduces bond strength, so the wall should always be cleaned thoroughly before fitting. Getting the direction of the 45-degree mitre angle wrong at internal or external corners results in poorly fitting joints with visible gaps. Fitting flexible skirting straight from cold storage without allowing it to acclimatise can result in poor adhesion and the material springing back from curves. Using an unsuitable adhesive is also a common error, as solvent-based adhesives can damage polystyrene and some PVC skirting boards, so compatibility with the skirting board material should always be checked. Measuring only the total room perimeter rather than each wall individually can lead to inaccurate quantities, since wall lengths often vary slightly. Finally, skipping the dry fit before applying adhesive removes the opportunity to make adjustments, which are far easier to carry out before the boards are bonded in place.