<?xml version="1.0"?>
<?xml-stylesheet type="text/css" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/skins/common/feed.css?301"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xml:lang="en">
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/w/index.php?feed=atom&amp;target=Bwhite8727&amp;title=Special%3AContributions%2FBwhite8727</id>
		<title>Designing Buildings - User contributions [en]</title>
		<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/w/index.php?feed=atom&amp;target=Bwhite8727&amp;title=Special%3AContributions%2FBwhite8727"/>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Special:Contributions/Bwhite8727"/>
		<updated>2026-06-28T17:04:02Z</updated>
		<subtitle>From Designing Buildings</subtitle>
		<generator>MediaWiki 1.17.4</generator>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-12-15T17:07:04Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Introduction =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-story house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimeter of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. Underground walls are assumed to have no infiltration. However, for aboveground walls in the winter the sensible heat loss due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat loss. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types of insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation, but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation, unlike cavity insulation, lies continuously alongside the structural members, so it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. Continuous insulation is generally foam board (i.e. rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members like studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fiberboard (i.e. rigid fiber or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibers, most commonly fiberglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats fiberglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the aboveground section; the belowground and above the frost line; and the belowground and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a belowground slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from grade. The calculation of heat loss is more complicated, as the soil temperature varies depending on the season, climate, soil condition, the moisture content in the soil, the depth of the soil from grade, and whether there is snow on the ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low thermal resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films) and warrants adding insulation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% reduction in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fiberglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R-value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50%. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give slightly different R-values.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R-value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where to put the insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, it is less expensive to attach it to the exterior belowground because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder like 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a proper installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Interior insulation prevents frost heaves from developing because the heat from the house is there to warm up the soil. Frost heaves are problematic for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces and spalling can occur. However, foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking caused by freezing and thawing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Avoiding the possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mold or bacteria do not grow. In all but arid climates, a vapor barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How to calculate heat gain/loss =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the loss through a basement wall, at least 50% of the wall must be belowground. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The wall area should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a belowground wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat loss coefficients for aboveground basement walls are given as U–factors and belowground as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the center out to the perimeter of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Bwhite8727|Bwhite8727]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;. U.S. Department Of Energy. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation].&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them].&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;Basement Heat Loss Guide&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php].&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Related articles on Designing Buildings Wiki. =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement excavation.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement Excavation (Restriction of Permitted Development) Bill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement impact assessment.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement v cellar.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement waterproofing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basements in buildings.&lt;br /&gt;
* Crawl space.&lt;br /&gt;
* Insulation.&lt;br /&gt;
* Right of support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Substructure.&lt;br /&gt;
* Underground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]] [[Category:Construction_techniques]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727</id>
		<title>User:Bwhite8727</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727"/>
				<updated>2020-12-15T17:03:47Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727</id>
		<title>User:Bwhite8727</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T19:12:57Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Brian is passionate about infusing green and sustainable solutions into architecture and creating architecture that preserves our environment, looks phenomenal, costs less, and brings people together harmoniously providing tranquillity. He enjoys researching ways to reduce ocean plastic and air pollution to improve the health of the world and its living beings. He challenges himself to solve major life problems, mostly environmental. Brian has eight years of design and manufacturing experience. In 2015, Brian earned his Master’s degree in Mechanical Engineering from the [https://www.unf.edu/ University of North Florida]. He is a LEED Accredited Professional in Building Design &amp;amp;amp; Construction. He is a Professional Engineer in the states of Florida (license number- [https://www.myfloridalicense.com/LicenseDetail.asp?SID=&amp;amp;amp;id=ED8AF21DA60458573DFFA80B6D097886 82197]) and California (license number- [https://search.dca.ca.gov/details/7500/M/39714/87cf38fa0a1ee4c2e0f70d645963e0ea 39714])&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727</id>
		<title>User:Bwhite8727</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T18:53:49Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Brian is passionate about infusing green and sustainable solutions into architecture and creating architecture that preserves our environment, looks phenomenal, costs less, and brings people together harmoniously providing tranquillity. He enjoys researching ways to reduce ocean plastic and air pollution to improve the health of the world and its living beings. He challenges himself to solve major life problems, mostly environmental. Brian has eight years of design and manufacturing experience. He completed his Masters in Mechanical Engineering in 2015 at The University of North Florida. He is a LEED Accredited Professional in Building Design &amp;amp;amp; Construction. He is a Professional Engineer in the states of Florida (license number- 82197) and California (license number- 39714)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T18:32:37Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e. rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;. U.S. Department Of Energy. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation].&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them].&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;Basement Heat Loss Guide&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php].&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Bwhite8727|Bwhite8727]] 19:26, 05 Jun 2020 (BST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727</id>
		<title>User:Bwhite8727</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/User:Bwhite8727"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T18:29:52Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Brian is passionate about infusing green and sustainable solutions into architecture and creating architecture that preserves our environment, looks phenomenal, costs less, and brings people together harmoniously providing tranquillity. He enjoys researching ways to reduce ocean plastic and air pollution to improve the health of the world and its living beings. He challenges himself to solve major life problems, mostly environmental. Brian has eight years of design and manufacturing experience. He completed his MS in Mechanical Engineering in May 2015 at UNF. He is a LEED AP BD+C and a Professional Engineer in Florida (Jan. 2017) and in California (Aug. 2019).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T18:26:42Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e. rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;, Energy.gov. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation].&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them].&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;InspectAPedia®&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php].&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Bwhite8727|Bwhite8727]] 19:26, 05 Jun 2020 (BST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T17:58:09Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e. rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;, Energy.gov. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation].&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them].&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;InspectAPedia®&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php].&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T17:24:24Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e. rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;, Energy.gov. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation]&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them]&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;InspectAPedia®&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php]&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Share this: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T16:36:44Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e.rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;, Energy.gov. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation]&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them]&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;InspectAPedia®&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php]&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Share this: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T16:36:18Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e.rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;, Energy.gov. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation]&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them]&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;InspectAPedia®&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php]&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Share this: www.wc.engineering ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T16:29:26Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e.rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;, Energy.gov. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation]&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them]&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;InspectAPedia®&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php]&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Scholarly &amp;amp;amp; Professional, Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Share this: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T16:27:56Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e.rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Norton, Paul. &amp;amp;quot;Types of Insulation&amp;amp;quot;, Energy.gov. [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation]&lt;br /&gt;
# Berner, Mike, &amp;amp;quot;Common Types of Insulation, and When to Use Them&amp;amp;quot;. [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them]&lt;br /&gt;
# &amp;amp;quot;InspectAPedia®&amp;amp;quot;. [https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php https://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php]&lt;br /&gt;
# Bobenhausen, William. &amp;amp;quot;Simplified Design of HVAC Systems”. Wiley, 1994.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Share this: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T16:08:38Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss/Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss/gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e.rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate Heat Gain/Losses =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation]&lt;br /&gt;
# [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them]&lt;br /&gt;
# [http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php]&lt;br /&gt;
# “Simplified Design of HVAC Systems” by William Bobenhausen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Share this: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation</id>
		<title>Basement insulation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_insulation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T16:07:12Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: Created page with &amp;quot;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss And Gain =  The heat loss and gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundat...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= Basement Insulation To Limit Heat Loss And Gain =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The heat loss and gain through basement walls and below-grade foundations are studied. Heat loss through the basement foundation accounts for 15% to 30% of the annual heat load in a two-storey house. If you want to improve the energy performance of your home then you should start by air sealing and insulating. The attic can account for ~25% of a home’s total heat loss and the basement ~20%. A considerable energy saver is the insulation of the perimetre of the slab and can save 10% to 20% on heating bills. In climates with mild winters, this saves $50 to $60/month for an 1800 sq–ft house using R–10 insulation. The cost for installation is $300 to $600 which gives a payback period of 5 to 10 years. It is assumed that basement walls that are below-grade have no infiltration and thus heat losses. However, for above-grade walls in the winter the sensible heat losses due to infiltration are ~½ to 3 times the conduction heat losses. For cooling, in the summer, these infiltration losses are halved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types Of Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are many types of insulation based on the application but the two main types are continuous and cavity. Continuous insulation runs continuously alongside the structural members, so unlike cavity insulation, it’s unaffected by thermal bridging. It’s generally foam board type (i.e.rigid foam or insulating boards) made of either polystyrene (extruded or expanded), polyisocyanurate, or polyurethane material. Cavity insulation is fitted between wood or metal structural members such as studs, joists (including rim joists), and beams. It’s a blanket type that comes in either batts or rolls that are attached to the inside surface of walls. Rigid fibreboard (i.e. rigid fibre or fibrous board) consists of flexible fibres, most commonly fibreglass. Mineral wool (i.e. ROCKWOOL®), however, has a similar R-value and beats out fibreglass as a fire retarder, it’s moisture resistant, and it’s more environmentally friendly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three sections of the basement walls that need to be accounted for: the above-grade section; the below-grade and above the frost line; and the below-grade and below the frost line. As opposed to an outside wall that is exposed to a uniform outside air temperature, a below-grade slab is exposed to the soil which varies in temperature depending on the depth from the surface. The heat loss calculation is more complicated due to the soil temperature varying depending on the time of year, the climate, the make-up of soil, whether snow is on the ground, the amount of moisture in the soil, and the depth of the dirt from the ground level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Construction Techniques =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Construction techniques like the cores in concrete blocks promote vertical convection of heat. This is beneficial but an 8–inch concrete wall without insulation has a low resistance (R–1.11 &amp;amp;amp; R–1.49 with air films). Due to the low resistance, this warrants adding insulation. For a 20′ x 30′ basement covered in a 2–inch beadboard (R–8), there is a 93% decrease in heat loss. Using 3.5–inch fibreglass batting (R–11) decreases the heat loss further to 95%. This type of insulation is used in warmer climates, but if the climate is colder, a 4″ to 6″ (R–30) insulation is used. The addition of a reflective barrier to the wall adds 16% to the R–value and, if the air space is reflective, it adds 50% to the R-value. Insulation placed on the interior of the exterior wall will give only slightly different R-values. For slab insulation at a 2–foot depth, an R–value that is more than R–20 is not justified because heat will go around the insulation. Also, insulating an 8–foot wall halfway down with R–10 is practically the same as insulating the 8–foot wall with R–5. With heating and cooling loads competing, this will provide earth coupling – less digging and insulation are needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Where To Put The Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for deciding where to put the insulation, if attached to the exterior this will be less expensive if below grade because it can be left uncovered; as such, no fire retarder such as 5/8–inch drywall is required. Secondly, the major air leak at the sill wall is prevented with a good installation. Thirdly, the thermal mass remains available to the house for heating or cooling. Lastly, the foundation is protected from stresses caused by insulating. Reasons to go with interior insulation are frost heaves will develop in the soil because the heat from the house is not there to warm up the soil. This can be particularly bad for block and stone foundations that cannot resist lateral forces. Foam insulation and backfilling with clean granular fill can prevent cracking because of freeze/thawing. Spalling can also occur. The possibility of an unheated basement falling below the freezing point may be important regarding pipes freezing. Heat is added to the basement by furnaces and boilers which are in the basement. Water heaters and laundry equipment, a source of heat, can be in the basement as well. As a rule of thumb, the basement temperature should be halfway between the outside and inside temperatures. Moisture control is important, so mould or bacteria do not grow. In all but very arid climates, a vapour barrier is installed on the warm side of the wall. The insulating material should not degrade structurally or thermally after long term exposure to the elements. The barrier is usually a thin sheet of PET plastic. The barrier prevents moisture from inside migrating into the wall where it condenses somewhere in the wall and greatly diminishes the R-values of the insulation and reflective barriers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How To Calculate =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When using a program (i.e. REScheck) to calculate the gains/losses through a basement wall at least 50% of the wall must be below grade. Basement walls that enclose heated spaces are part of the building envelope. The area of the wall should exclude windows and doors. For increased accuracy, the basement floor area should have the exterior wall thickness subtracted. An approximate method for calculating heat loss through a basement is given by the equation: qem = EF x U x A, where EF is a correction factor for a below-grade wall and A is the area of the basement walls. Heat gain/loss coefficients for above-grade basement walls are given as U–factors and below-grade as F–factors [Btu / (hr–ft–°F)]. For the foundation, the heat loss is conducted away from the centre out to the perimetre of the slab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Qsc = F x P&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Qsc – slab edge transmission heat loss&lt;br /&gt;
* P – perimetre of the slab edge in linear feet&lt;br /&gt;
* F – transmission heat loss per linear foot of slab edge&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= References =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# [https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/insulation/types-insulation]&lt;br /&gt;
# [https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/heating-cooling/common-types-of-insulation-and-when-to-use-them]&lt;br /&gt;
# [http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Basement_Heat_Loss.php]&lt;br /&gt;
# “Simplified Design of HVAC Systems” by William Bobenhausen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Share this: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	<entry>
		<id>https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_excavation</id>
		<title>Basement excavation</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Basement_excavation"/>
				<updated>2020-06-05T15:56:53Z</updated>
		
		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bwhite8727: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This article needs more work, to help develop this article, click ‘Edit this article’ above.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Basement_excavation.jpg|link=File:Basement_excavation.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Introduction =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A basement is part of a building that is either partially or completely below ground level. Approved document B of the UK building regulations, Fire Safety, Volume 1 Dwellinghouses, defines a ‘basement storey’ as:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
‘A storey with a floor which at some point is more than 1,200 mm below the highest level of ground adjacent to the outside walls.’&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basements can be constructed using brick or concrete block, poured concrete, pre-cast concrete, or even treated wood.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basements generally become more expensive as the depth increases. However, in prime locations, the cost of land may justify multi-story basements or even below-ground parking garages. This is becoming increasingly common in central London where even larger ‘iceberg basements’ have provoked much controversy as they can cause significant disruption to and disturbance of neighbours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See Basement Excavation (Restriction of Permitted Development) Bill and Planning (Subterranean Development) Bill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Concerns about the disruption caused by the construction of basements, and the trend for 'iceberg' basements have resulted in attempts to introduce restrictions, such as the Basement Excavation (Restriction of Permitted Development) Bill and the Planning (Subterranean Development) Bill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In August 2016, the City of Westminster introduced a new code of construction practice with an average levy of £8,000 on the construction of basements and a new ‘subterranean squad’ to help reduce the impact of basement construction works.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Excavation process =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the size of the property, the amount of excavation and building work required and its complexity, the work for constructing a basement to a house will last typically for 12-20 weeks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first stage is for hoarding to be erected and usually for a timber shelter to be constructed in front of the house or around the opening to the excavation. An initial external opening to the basement area is created and temporary weather-proofing and supports are installed where necessary. A backhoe or excavator can then dig down, with excavated material brought to the surface and into a skip. Existing foundations may be underpinned if necessary as the excavation proceeds. Existing building services may need to be re-routed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Types of construction =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Very broadly, there are three generic types of basement construction:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Poured concrete ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The external structure of the basement is poured into formwork, with reinforcing steel bars included if required. Forms are then stripped away after curing. This type of construction tends to be stronger than others and is much more resistant to water infiltration.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Block, masonry walls ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This tends to be the most economical option for small-scale basement construction and often requires less time. However, concrete blocks are not suited to soil conditions that are prone to swelling as this applies lateral pressures to the basement wall which can weaken joints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Precast panels ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Precast concrete panels can be transported to the site and assembled on footings. This method is not as common but can be economical where there are multiple basements being constructed at the same time. If the joists between panels are not properly sealed then moisture can get trapped in the panels or penetrate to the interior and cause problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Waterproofing =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BS 8102: 2009 Code of practice for protection of structures against water from the ground, provides three categories of basement waterproofing:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Tanking ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A continuous waterproof barrier is applied to the inside or outside of the basement structure. The most common form is a bituminous ‘stick-on’ plastic sheet. Whilst this is relatively inexpensive, it can lose adhesion and is easily damaged during backfilling.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Alternatively, an external membrane can be painted or sprayed onto the external surface which can be covered by a drainage board to allow provide protection from the backfill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Structurally integral protection ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is chemically-enhanced water-resistant concrete which can be used in combination with a waterproof membrane.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Drained cavity ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cavities are formed within between the internal and external wall and floor constructions to collect and drain away water entering the basement using a sump and pump. As well as the internal drain, a perimeter drain may also be included. This runs around the external perimeter of the building just below the level of the foundation, removing water from the building’s external face.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Insulation =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As basements are surrounded by earth, their temperature has a tendency to remain fairly even throughout the year. There are several methods of insulating a basement, such as foam insulation, rigid insulation boards, or fibreglass batts. These allow for the retention of heat inside the basement and the prevention of condensation on walls which will eventually lead to mould growth. It is particularly important that basements are properly ventilated as they may have a vapour-impermeable construction and are unlikely to have openable windows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Building services are likely to supply the basement from above, and drainage from the basement is likely to require pumping.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Risks =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Compared with building higher, building down can involve more risks. The complexity of basement excavation increases with the depth, a higher water table, and a more congested site.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prior to construction, good site information and soil tests are critical in terms of being able to adequately plan and forecast potential difficulties that may arise.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most common risks are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Drainage difficulties and risks of flooding due to poor weather.&lt;br /&gt;
* Poor ground conditions and natural ground heave or settlement.&lt;br /&gt;
* Various obstructions, such as tunnels, existing services, mining works, archeological remains, and so on.&lt;br /&gt;
* Boundary issues that may prove to be contentious, most commonly the foundations of nearby properties (see party wall act and right of support).&lt;br /&gt;
* Loads from adjacent buildings and roads.&lt;br /&gt;
* Failure of waterproofing, insurance, and guarantees.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Related articles on Designing Buildings Wiki =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Basements in buildings.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement Excavation (Restriction of Permitted Development) Bill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement impact assessment.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement v cellar.&lt;br /&gt;
* Basement waterproofing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Compensated foundation.&lt;br /&gt;
* Diaphragm wall.&lt;br /&gt;
* Excavation.&lt;br /&gt;
* Party Wall Act.&lt;br /&gt;
* Planning (Subterranean Development) Bill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Right of support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Substructure.&lt;br /&gt;
* Trench.&lt;br /&gt;
* Underground car park.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= External references =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Building – [http://www.building.co.uk/whole-life-costs-basements/3073920.article Whole life costs basements]&lt;br /&gt;
* Self-build – [http://www.self-build.co.uk/basement-extensions-pros-and-cons Basement extensions: Pros and cons]&lt;br /&gt;
* DIY Doctor – [http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/digbasement.htm Dig a basement]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.about-home-design.com/ About Home Design]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]] [[Category:Construction_techniques]] [[Category:Design]] [[Category:Property_development]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bwhite8727</name></author>	</entry>

	</feed>