Lime based thermal plaster part 2 - Revision history

Editor at 07:33, 9 September 2024

2024-09-09T07:33:22Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:33, 9 September 2024
Line 80:		Line 80:

	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_24.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_24.jpg]]		[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_24.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_24.jpg]]
		+
		+	= Related articles on Designing Buildings =
		+
		+	* Binding agent.
		+	* Cement mortar.
		+	* Defects in brickwork.
		+	* Defects in stonework.
		+	* Dry hydrate lime mortar.
		+	* Grout.
		+	* Gypsum.
		+	* Harl.
		+	* Hemp lime construction: A guide to building with hemp lime composites.
		+	* High alumina cement.
		+	* High lime low alkali glass.
		+	* Hot-mixed lime mortar.
		+	* Hot-mixed mortars: the new lime revival.
		+	* Hydraulic lime.
		+	* Hydrated lime.
		+	* Lime based thermal plaster part 1.
		+	* Lime concrete.
		+	* Lime mortar.
		+	* Lime mortars vs. cement.
		+	* Lime plaster.
		+	* Lime putty mortar.
		+	* Lime run-off.
		+	* Mortar.
		+	* Mortar analysis for specifiers.
		+	* Non hydraulic lime.
		+	* Pointing.
		+	* Portland cement.
		+	* Rendering.
		+	* Soda-lime glass.
		+	* Stucco.
		+	* Types of mortar.
		+	* The use of lime mortar in building conservation.
		+	* Types of mortar.

	[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]		[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]

Editor at 07:23, 9 September 2024

2024-09-09T07:23:55Z

Show changes

Editor at 06:14, 9 September 2024

2024-09-09T06:14:25Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:14, 9 September 2024
Line 1:		Line 1:
		+	This is a short blog experimenting with applying a known thermal lime plaster product internally. It is a 2 part article, the first of which can be found under Lime based thermal plaster part 1.
		+
	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_3.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_3.jpg]]		[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_3.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_3.jpg]]

−	As explained in part 1, the advice initially was to take the plaster off at least internally but as time and cost wouldn't allow the project progressed as per the, essentially un specified plan. So stage 1 was to remove all of the existing wallpaper and then inspect the surface, which was it was a mix of layers of dry glue, years of magnolia paint, older green paint, on top of primarily lime plaster with various patches of gypsum. The issue with this being that any breathability of the wall ~~being~~ lost through the historical renovation layers.	+	As explained in part 1, the advice initially was to take the plaster off at least internally but as time and cost wouldn't allow the project progressed as per the, essentially un-specified plan. So stage 1 was to remove all of the existing wallpaper and then inspect the surface, which was it was a mix of layers of dry glue, years of magnolia paint, older green paint, on top of primarily lime plaster with various patches of gypsum. The issue with this, being that any breathability of the wall had essentially been lost through the historical renovation layers, I to some extent questioned to overall breathability of a granite stone wall, except through the lime mortar connections.

	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_4.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_4.jpg]]		[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_4.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_4.jpg]]

−	So the intention was to score through this build up as deep and as much as possible, as well as remove the gypsum plaster where ever possible. Essentially ~~to cut~~ through ~~is on~~ the ~~recommendations~~ from the ~~lime centre as much as possible into the wall~~. So I start scoring with a chisel ~~branches or on time~~ and ~~I use a~~ tool I had ~~which space it's called a deep as I could a few about~~ 5-~~10 now each time much impossible to key in~~ the ~~finish~~ and ~~likewise I scored in~~ to the ~~internal~~.	+	So the intention was to score through this build up as deep and as much as possible, as well as remove the gypsum plaster where ever possible. Essentially cutting through this layer was, in the absence of being able to remove it completely the minimum recommendation from the manufacturer. So I start scoring with a chisel, and slowly moved to an electric tool I had, to create cuts around 5-10mm deep, primarily on the inside face of the external walls but also the faces of the internal solid supporting walls. It is worth noting, as an observation of the difference between gypsum plaster and lime plaster, that where there were sections of gypsum, they were very hard and noticeably damper. They were very hard to remove and would come off as large pieces, taking much of the lime with them, leaving a darker, damper area of wall below, an indication of the difference between the lime and the gypsum's hygroscopicity.

	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_5.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_5.jpg]]		[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_5.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_5.jpg]]

−	Then the next stage was to build the sort of extra rafters to allow for secondary insulation, ~~so it's about time selecting~~ where the ~~beams were,~~ and ~~then~~ the rafters of the ~~roof and then fixing~~ the timbers to make it strong enough.	+	Then the next stage was to build the sort of extra rafters to allow for secondary insulation, which meant investigations in the loft to measure where the ceiling joists and the rafters lay, so as to be able to fix the new timbers to these from the underside. As there would be some weight hanging from these timbers, it was important to make sure they were strong enough, with a framework of timber to timber fixings, pack with mineral wool insulation between, thus the upper plater board layer, with the original plastic sheet on the outside, effectively becoming the moisture barrier, with the ventilation gap above and then the roof slates, below the existing plasterboard becoming the new improved thermal line of the envelope.[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_7.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_7.jpg]]
−		+
−	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_7.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_7.jpg]]	+

−	~~The secondary rafters then fixed by the woodwool board~~, which is strands of timber compressed with a lime solution to make the hard, breathable ~~quite~~ lightweight. ~~Installation is with~~ special plastic ~~lugs because you don't want~~ the fixings ~~to go~~ through the board and it fails, these lugs or washers hold it in place.	+	Once packed with mineral wool, the wood-wool boards (which are strands of timber compressed with a lime solution to make the hard, breathable and lightweight board) were then fixed to the new timbers. This installation required special plastic washers, to prevent the fixings from driving straight through the board and it fails, these lugs or washers hold it in place.

	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_9.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_9.jpg]]		[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_9.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_9.jpg]]

Editor at 16:14, 3 September 2024

2024-09-03T16:14:52Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:14, 3 September 2024
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 3~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_3.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_3.jpg]]

−	~~The~~ advice initially was to take the plaster off time and cost ~~wise wasn’t possible~~. So stage 1 was ~~I removed~~ all of the ~~plaster~~ wallpaper and then ~~just to look at~~ the surface was it was a mix of layers of paint ~~and~~ older green paint, ~~there was some so lots~~ of ~~layers~~ of ~~Magnolia paint the problem~~ with ~~paint is it prevents it from breathing~~.	+	As explained in part 1, the advice initially was to take the plaster off at least internally but as time and cost wouldn't allow the project progressed as per the, essentially un specified plan. So stage 1 was to remove all of the existing wallpaper and then inspect the surface, which was it was a mix of layers of dry glue, years of magnolia paint, older green paint, on top of primarily lime plaster with various patches of gypsum. The issue with this being that any breathability of the wall being lost through the historical renovation layers.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 4~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_4.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_4.jpg]]

−	So the intention was to score through this is on the recommendations from the lime centre as much as possible into the wall. So I start scoring with a chisel branches or on time and I use a tool I had which space it's called a deep as I could a few about 5-10 now each time much impossible to key in the finish and likewise I scored in to the internal.	+	So the intention was to score through this build up as deep and as much as possible, as well as remove the gypsum plaster where ever possible. Essentially to cut through is on the recommendations from the lime centre as much as possible into the wall. So I start scoring with a chisel branches or on time and I use a tool I had which space it's called a deep as I could a few about 5-10 now each time much impossible to key in the finish and likewise I scored in to the internal.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 5~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_5.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_5.jpg]]

	Then the next stage was to build the sort of extra rafters to allow for secondary insulation, so it's about time selecting where the beams were, and then the rafters of the roof and then fixing the timbers to make it strong enough.		Then the next stage was to build the sort of extra rafters to allow for secondary insulation, so it's about time selecting where the beams were, and then the rafters of the roof and then fixing the timbers to make it strong enough.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 7~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_7.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_7.jpg]]

	The secondary rafters then fixed by the woodwool board, which is strands of timber compressed with a lime solution to make the hard, breathable quite lightweight. Installation is with special plastic lugs because you don't want the fixings to go through the board and it fails, these lugs or washers hold it in place.		The secondary rafters then fixed by the woodwool board, which is strands of timber compressed with a lime solution to make the hard, breathable quite lightweight. Installation is with special plastic lugs because you don't want the fixings to go through the board and it fails, these lugs or washers hold it in place.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 9~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_9.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_9.jpg]]

	The the next was to fill the back of the secondary framing with mineral wool, then fixing the boards over that to create the extra insulation line, with once that was done.		The the next was to fill the back of the secondary framing with mineral wool, then fixing the boards over that to create the extra insulation line, with once that was done.
Line 21:		Line 21:
	I primed the walls in a lime primer over and into the scratches.		I primed the walls in a lime primer over and into the scratches.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 6~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_6.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_6.jpg]]

	Then there is a plastic gauze mesh sheet which gives extra grip , and prevents cracking as the substrates (the board and the scratched wall) move and dry differently.		Then there is a plastic gauze mesh sheet which gives extra grip , and prevents cracking as the substrates (the board and the scratched wall) move and dry differently.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 11~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_11.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_11.jpg]]

	This was laid from the top of the boards down the face and someway onto the wall below, it was quite fiddly, the better way is to lay it on a frst coat but I fixed it under the washers.		This was laid from the top of the boards down the face and someway onto the wall below, it was quite fiddly, the better way is to lay it on a frst coat but I fixed it under the washers.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 15~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_15.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_15.jpg]]

	Next stage I started to use the thermal insulation on the walls, but when I came to the angle boards using the thermal product felt very gritty as if it wasn’t taking correctly. So I tried directly using the finish plaster but this seemed to be to thin and allowed the washer rings to show through the plaster. So double checked and took some advice, they said it would be better to use the hemp shiv product first on the boards to build it up, and then to finish over all of the upper and lower levels.		Next stage I started to use the thermal insulation on the walls, but when I came to the angle boards using the thermal product felt very gritty as if it wasn’t taking correctly. So I tried directly using the finish plaster but this seemed to be to thin and allowed the washer rings to show through the plaster. So double checked and took some advice, they said it would be better to use the hemp shiv product first on the boards to build it up, and then to finish over all of the upper and lower levels.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 10~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_10.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_10.jpg]]

	This is one of the good things about the manufacturer is that they have essentially three products, in a similar way to some gypsum manufacturers did, so it makes it more familiar to the builders market. There is the hemp shiv coat, which is similar to what we called a bonding coat, in gypsum plaster, the thermal thicker mineral coat and then a thinner finish coat of plaster. The application per pass being thickest with the thermal coat and thinnest with the finish coat.		This is one of the good things about the manufacturer is that they have essentially three products, in a similar way to some gypsum manufacturers did, so it makes it more familiar to the builders market. There is the hemp shiv coat, which is similar to what we called a bonding coat, in gypsum plaster, the thermal thicker mineral coat and then a thinner finish coat of plaster. The application per pass being thickest with the thermal coat and thinnest with the finish coat.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 12~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_12.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_12.jpg]]

	I've worked with gypsum plaster quite a lot and I was a bit nervous about using lime but actually works very similar, I found it worked quite well, it went off relatively quickly but you could always add a bit more water if you keep an eye on it. the bit that I hadn't figured was I had gloves which I thought were rubber full rubber but they're actually textile on the back and at some point my the back of the textile got wet and I had some burning my fingers. So you need to really careful to buy fully rubber gloves both front and back.		I've worked with gypsum plaster quite a lot and I was a bit nervous about using lime but actually works very similar, I found it worked quite well, it went off relatively quickly but you could always add a bit more water if you keep an eye on it. the bit that I hadn't figured was I had gloves which I thought were rubber full rubber but they're actually textile on the back and at some point my the back of the textile got wet and I had some burning my fingers. So you need to really careful to buy fully rubber gloves both front and back.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 14~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_14.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_14.jpg]]

	I was putting about 10 mm on at a time, I think the thermal insulation was obviously thicker where it curves at the angles and also in the corners which is also helpful because that was the weakest point from a thermal perspective. It was also helped by the nature of the finish I wanted which was rustic, and curved rather than pristine lines and corners, though no doubt the product could do both, its just a matter of skill level.		I was putting about 10 mm on at a time, I think the thermal insulation was obviously thicker where it curves at the angles and also in the corners which is also helpful because that was the weakest point from a thermal perspective. It was also helped by the nature of the finish I wanted which was rustic, and curved rather than pristine lines and corners, though no doubt the product could do both, its just a matter of skill level.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 13~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_13.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_13.jpg]]

	So that that point I had about I think probably 25-30 mill of thermal insulation plaster on the wall on the external walls and then I have whatever it was not pretty 5 or 10 mil of hemp Shiv plaster on the boards and a kind of mixer in the curve round the window was tricky but 'cause it was very difficult to get through the plaster finish.		So that that point I had about I think probably 25-30 mill of thermal insulation plaster on the wall on the external walls and then I have whatever it was not pretty 5 or 10 mil of hemp Shiv plaster on the boards and a kind of mixer in the curve round the window was tricky but 'cause it was very difficult to get through the plaster finish.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 15b~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_15b.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_15b.jpg]]

	So it's not perfect, in a way too much time trying to get it perfect on the 1st coat, I think I used around 26 bags of some plaster the amounts were about right it's like a slightly shorter I guess. on the internals walls, should not so exposed I put the hemp on the 1st you know bonding the scratches, lime paint align paint and then the bonding.		So it's not perfect, in a way too much time trying to get it perfect on the 1st coat, I think I used around 26 bags of some plaster the amounts were about right it's like a slightly shorter I guess. on the internals walls, should not so exposed I put the hemp on the 1st you know bonding the scratches, lime paint align paint and then the bonding.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 16~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_16.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_16.jpg]]

	I had taken the skirting boards off because of the increased thickness so had to cuu these down, as I was letting it dry, which it did quicker than I'd expected, despite being quite thick, but as my time was very short and also to note at the time it had been raining a lot and so the conditions were not perfect. Though I had also been advised not to let it dry too quickly, so it was a balance, but I did have a dehumidifier also, so it was a case of spraying to keep it moist but also letting it dry out.		I had taken the skirting boards off because of the increased thickness so had to cuu these down, as I was letting it dry, which it did quicker than I'd expected, despite being quite thick, but as my time was very short and also to note at the time it had been raining a lot and so the conditions were not perfect. Though I had also been advised not to let it dry too quickly, so it was a balance, but I did have a dehumidifier also, so it was a case of spraying to keep it moist but also letting it dry out.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 17~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_17.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_17.jpg]]

	So the last final part was, that as I was running out of time, I made another choice that the supplier didn't recommend. This was to used a pigment, because I just didn’t have time to wait for it to dry enough to apply paint, so i used pigments.		So the last final part was, that as I was running out of time, I made another choice that the supplier didn't recommend. This was to used a pigment, because I just didn’t have time to wait for it to dry enough to apply paint, so i used pigments.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 19~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_19.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_19.jpg]]

	This introduces an unknown element for the supplier and thus reasonable that they advised against it, but I was running out of time and I could leave the natural grey finish.		This introduces an unknown element for the supplier and thus reasonable that they advised against it, but I was running out of time and I could leave the natural grey finish.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 20~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_20.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_20.jpg]]

	So I tested with small pots in terms, of amounts and plastered on the wall, which was a guessing game really, I added I think 4 spoonfuls per packet of plaster and then just tried it.		So I tested with small pots in terms, of amounts and plastered on the wall, which was a guessing game really, I added I think 4 spoonfuls per packet of plaster and then just tried it.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 21~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_21.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_21.jpg]]

	I had spent some time trying to get the plastere lines in areas, but struggled around the window so probably rightly or wrongly I just decided to sponge over the final finish. Which I should have probably waited longer to do, I wasn't sure about and it wouldn’t be the finish to everyones taste but it actally fitted the building and rustic feel. Because I sponged it a little wet the grains or grit became expose so the finish was gritty, and so in areas on the chimney breast I hadn’t plastered I painted the lime wash, which also had a gritty finish to tye it all in.		I had spent some time trying to get the plastere lines in areas, but struggled around the window so probably rightly or wrongly I just decided to sponge over the final finish. Which I should have probably waited longer to do, I wasn't sure about and it wouldn’t be the finish to everyones taste but it actally fitted the building and rustic feel. Because I sponged it a little wet the grains or grit became expose so the finish was gritty, and so in areas on the chimney breast I hadn’t plastered I painted the lime wash, which also had a gritty finish to tye it all in.

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 22~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_22.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_22.jpg]]

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 23~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_23.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_23.jpg]]

−	[[File:~~Thermal Lime plaster 24~~.jpg]]	+	[[File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_24.jpg\|link=File:Thermal_Lime_plaster_24.jpg]]

	[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]		[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]

Editor at 12:03, 2 September 2024

2024-09-02T12:03:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:03, 2 September 2024
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	~~The advice initially was to take the~~ plaster off time and cost wise wasn’t possible. So stage 1 was I removed all of the plaster wallpaper and then just to look at the surface was it was a mix of layers of paint and older green paint, there was some so lots of layers of Magnolia paint the problem with paint is it prevents it from breathing. So the intention was to score through this is on the recommendations from the lime centre as much as possible into the wall. So I start scoring with a chisel branches or on time and I use a tool I had which space it's called a deep as I could a few about 5-10 now each time much impossible to key in the finish and likewise I scored in to the internal. Then the next stage was to build the sort of extra rafters to allow for secondary insulation, so it's about time selecting where the beams were, and then the rafters of the roof and then fixing the timbers to make it strong enough. The secondary rafters then fixed by the woodwool board, which is strands of timber compressed with a lime solution to make the hard, breathable quite lightweight. Installation is with special plastic lugs because you don't want the fixings to go through the board and it fails, these lugs or washers hold it in place.	+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 3.jpg]]

−	The the next was to fill the back of the secondary framing with mineral wool, then fixing the boards over that to create the extra insulation line, with once that was done. I primed the walls in a lime primer over and into the scratches. Then there is a plastic gauze mesh sheet which gives extra grip , and prevents cracking as the substrates ( the board and the scratched wall) move and dry differently. This was laid from the top of the boards down the face and someway onto the wall below, it was quite fiddly, the better way is to lay it on a frst coat but I fixed it under the washers.	+	The advice initially was to take the plaster off time and cost wise wasn’t possible. So stage 1 was I removed all of the plaster wallpaper and then just to look at the surface was it was a mix of layers of paint and older green paint, there was some so lots of layers of Magnolia paint the problem with paint is it prevents it from breathing.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 4.jpg]]
		+
		+	So the intention was to score through this is on the recommendations from the lime centre as much as possible into the wall. So I start scoring with a chisel branches or on time and I use a tool I had which space it's called a deep as I could a few about 5-10 now each time much impossible to key in the finish and likewise I scored in to the internal.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 5.jpg]]
		+
		+	Then the next stage was to build the sort of extra rafters to allow for secondary insulation, so it's about time selecting where the beams were, and then the rafters of the roof and then fixing the timbers to make it strong enough.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 7.jpg]]
		+
		+	The secondary rafters then fixed by the woodwool board, which is strands of timber compressed with a lime solution to make the hard, breathable quite lightweight. Installation is with special plastic lugs because you don't want the fixings to go through the board and it fails, these lugs or washers hold it in place.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 9.jpg]]
		+
		+	The the next was to fill the back of the secondary framing with mineral wool, then fixing the boards over that to create the extra insulation line, with once that was done.
		+
		+	I primed the walls in a lime primer over and into the scratches.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 6.jpg]]
		+
		+	Then there is a plastic gauze mesh sheet which gives extra grip , and prevents cracking as the substrates (the board and the scratched wall) move and dry differently.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 11.jpg]]
		+
		+	This was laid from the top of the boards down the face and someway onto the wall below, it was quite fiddly, the better way is to lay it on a frst coat but I fixed it under the washers.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 15.jpg]]

	Next stage I started to use the thermal insulation on the walls, but when I came to the angle boards using the thermal product felt very gritty as if it wasn’t taking correctly. So I tried directly using the finish plaster but this seemed to be to thin and allowed the washer rings to show through the plaster. So double checked and took some advice, they said it would be better to use the hemp shiv product first on the boards to build it up, and then to finish over all of the upper and lower levels.		Next stage I started to use the thermal insulation on the walls, but when I came to the angle boards using the thermal product felt very gritty as if it wasn’t taking correctly. So I tried directly using the finish plaster but this seemed to be to thin and allowed the washer rings to show through the plaster. So double checked and took some advice, they said it would be better to use the hemp shiv product first on the boards to build it up, and then to finish over all of the upper and lower levels.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 10.jpg]]

	This is one of the good things about the manufacturer is that they have essentially three products, in a similar way to some gypsum manufacturers did, so it makes it more familiar to the builders market. There is the hemp shiv coat, which is similar to what we called a bonding coat, in gypsum plaster, the thermal thicker mineral coat and then a thinner finish coat of plaster. The application per pass being thickest with the thermal coat and thinnest with the finish coat.		This is one of the good things about the manufacturer is that they have essentially three products, in a similar way to some gypsum manufacturers did, so it makes it more familiar to the builders market. There is the hemp shiv coat, which is similar to what we called a bonding coat, in gypsum plaster, the thermal thicker mineral coat and then a thinner finish coat of plaster. The application per pass being thickest with the thermal coat and thinnest with the finish coat.

−	~~I've worked with gypsum~~ plaster quite a lot and I was a bit nervous about using lime but actually works very similar, I found it worked quite well, it went off relatively quickly but you could always add a bit more water if you keep an eye on it. the bit that I hadn't figured was I had gloves which I thought were rubber full rubber but they're actually textile on the back and at some point my the back of the textile got wet and I had some burning my fingers. So you need to really careful to buy fully rubber gloves both front and back. I was putting about 10 mm on at a time, I think the thermal insulation was obviously thicker where it curves at the angles and also in the corners which is also helpful because that was the weakest point from a thermal perspective. It was also helped by the nature of the finish I wanted which was rustic, and curved rather than pristine lines and corners, though no doubt the product could do both, its just a matter of skill level.	+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 12.jpg]]

−	So that that point I had about I think probably 25-30 mill of thermal insulation plaster on the wall on the external walls and then I have whatever it was not pretty 5 or 10 mil of hemp Shiv plaster on the boards and a kind of mixer in the curve round the window was tricky but 'cause it was very difficult to get through the plaster finish. So it's not perfect, in a way too much time trying to get it perfect on the 1st coat, I think I used around 26 bags of some plaster the amounts were about right it's like a slightly shorter I guess. on the internals walls, should not so exposed I put the hemp on the 1st you know bonding the scratches, lime paint align paint and then the bonding.	+	I've worked with gypsum plaster quite a lot and I was a bit nervous about using lime but actually works very similar, I found it worked quite well, it went off relatively quickly but you could always add a bit more water if you keep an eye on it. the bit that I hadn't figured was I had gloves which I thought were rubber full rubber but they're actually textile on the back and at some point my the back of the textile got wet and I had some burning my fingers. So you need to really careful to buy fully rubber gloves both front and back.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 14.jpg]]
		+
		+	I was putting about 10 mm on at a time, I think the thermal insulation was obviously thicker where it curves at the angles and also in the corners which is also helpful because that was the weakest point from a thermal perspective. It was also helped by the nature of the finish I wanted which was rustic, and curved rather than pristine lines and corners, though no doubt the product could do both, its just a matter of skill level.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 13.jpg]]
		+
		+	So that that point I had about I think probably 25-30 mill of thermal insulation plaster on the wall on the external walls and then I have whatever it was not pretty 5 or 10 mil of hemp Shiv plaster on the boards and a kind of mixer in the curve round the window was tricky but 'cause it was very difficult to get through the plaster finish.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 15b.jpg]]
		+
		+	So it's not perfect, in a way too much time trying to get it perfect on the 1st coat, I think I used around 26 bags of some plaster the amounts were about right it's like a slightly shorter I guess. on the internals walls, should not so exposed I put the hemp on the 1st you know bonding the scratches, lime paint align paint and then the bonding.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 16.jpg]]

	I had taken the skirting boards off because of the increased thickness so had to cuu these down, as I was letting it dry, which it did quicker than I'd expected, despite being quite thick, but as my time was very short and also to note at the time it had been raining a lot and so the conditions were not perfect. Though I had also been advised not to let it dry too quickly, so it was a balance, but I did have a dehumidifier also, so it was a case of spraying to keep it moist but also letting it dry out.		I had taken the skirting boards off because of the increased thickness so had to cuu these down, as I was letting it dry, which it did quicker than I'd expected, despite being quite thick, but as my time was very short and also to note at the time it had been raining a lot and so the conditions were not perfect. Though I had also been advised not to let it dry too quickly, so it was a balance, but I did have a dehumidifier also, so it was a case of spraying to keep it moist but also letting it dry out.

−	So the last final part was, that as I was running out of time, I made another choice that the supplier didn't recommend. This was to used a pigment, because I just didn’t have time to wait for it to dry enough to apply paint, so i used pigments. ~~Which~~ introduces an unknown element for the supplier and thus reasonable that they advised against it, but I was running out of time and I could leave the natural grey finish. So I tested with small pots in terms, of amounts and plastered on the wall, which was a guessing game really, I added I think 4 spoonfuls per packet of plaster and then just tried it. I had spent some time trying to get the plastere lines in areas, but struggled around the window so probably rightly or wrongly I just decided to sponge over the final finish. Which I should have probably waited longer to do, I wasn't sure about and it wouldn’t be the finish to everyones taste but it actally fitted the building and rustic feel. Because I sponged it a little wet the grains or grit became expose so the finish was gritty, and so in areas on the chimney breast I hadn’t plastered I painted the lime wash, which also had a gritty finish to tye it all in.	+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 17.jpg]]
		+
		+	So the last final part was, that as I was running out of time, I made another choice that the supplier didn't recommend. This was to used a pigment, because I just didn’t have time to wait for it to dry enough to apply paint, so i used pigments.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 19.jpg]]
		+
		+	This introduces an unknown element for the supplier and thus reasonable that they advised against it, but I was running out of time and I could leave the natural grey finish.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 20.jpg]]
		+
		+	So I tested with small pots in terms, of amounts and plastered on the wall, which was a guessing game really, I added I think 4 spoonfuls per packet of plaster and then just tried it.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 21.jpg]]
		+
		+	I had spent some time trying to get the plastere lines in areas, but struggled around the window so probably rightly or wrongly I just decided to sponge over the final finish. Which I should have probably waited longer to do, I wasn't sure about and it wouldn’t be the finish to everyones taste but it actally fitted the building and rustic feel. Because I sponged it a little wet the grains or grit became expose so the finish was gritty, and so in areas on the chimney breast I hadn’t plastered I painted the lime wash, which also had a gritty finish to tye it all in.
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 22.jpg]]
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 23.jpg]]
		+
		+	[[File:Thermal Lime plaster 24.jpg]]

	[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]		[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]

Editor: Created page with "The advice initially was to take the plaster off time and cost wise wasn’t possible. So stage 1 was I removed all of the plaster wallpaper and then just to look at the surface ..."

2024-09-02T10:24:45Z

Created page with "The advice initially was to take the plaster off time and cost wise wasn’t possible. So stage 1 was I removed all of the plaster wallpaper and then just to look at the surface ..."

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The advice initially was to take the plaster off time and cost wise wasn’t possible. So stage 1 was I removed all of the plaster wallpaper and then just to look at the surface was it was a mix of layers of paint and older green paint, there was some so lots of layers of Magnolia paint the problem with paint is it prevents it from breathing. So the intention was to score through this is on the recommendations from the lime centre as much as possible into the wall. So I start scoring with a chisel branches or on time and I use a tool I had which space it's called a deep as I could a few about 5-10 now each time much impossible to key in the finish and likewise I scored in to the internal. Then the next stage was to build the sort of extra rafters to allow for secondary insulation, so it's about time selecting where the beams were, and then the rafters of the roof and then fixing the timbers to make it strong enough. The secondary rafters then fixed by the woodwool board, which is strands of timber compressed with a lime solution to make the hard, breathable quite lightweight. Installation is with special plastic lugs because you don't want the fixings to go through the board and it fails, these lugs or washers hold it in place.

The the next was to fill the back of the secondary framing with mineral wool, then fixing the boards over that to create the extra insulation line, with once that was done. I primed the walls in a lime primer over and into the scratches. Then there is a plastic gauze mesh sheet which gives extra grip , and prevents cracking as the substrates ( the board and the scratched wall) move and dry differently. This was laid from the top of the boards down the face and someway onto the wall below, it was quite fiddly, the better way is to lay it on a frst coat but I fixed it under the washers.

Next stage I started to use the thermal insulation on the walls, but when I came to the angle boards using the thermal product felt very gritty as if it wasn’t taking correctly. So I tried directly using the finish plaster but this seemed to be to thin and allowed the washer rings to show through the plaster. So double checked and took some advice, they said it would be better to use the hemp shiv product first on the boards to build it up, and then to finish over all of the upper and lower levels.

This is one of the good things about the manufacturer is that they have essentially three products, in a similar way to some gypsum manufacturers did, so it makes it more familiar to the builders market. There is the hemp shiv coat, which is similar to what we called a bonding coat, in gypsum plaster, the thermal thicker mineral coat and then a thinner finish coat of plaster. The application per pass being thickest with the thermal coat and thinnest with the finish coat.

I've worked with gypsum plaster quite a lot and I was a bit nervous about using lime but actually works very similar, I found it worked quite well, it went off relatively quickly but you could always add a bit more water if you keep an eye on it. the bit that I hadn't figured was I had gloves which I thought were rubber full rubber but they're actually textile on the back and at some point my the back of the textile got wet and I had some burning my fingers. So you need to really careful to buy fully rubber gloves both front and back. I was putting about 10 mm on at a time, I think the thermal insulation was obviously thicker where it curves at the angles and also in the corners which is also helpful because that was the weakest point from a thermal perspective. It was also helped by the nature of the finish I wanted which was rustic, and curved rather than pristine lines and corners, though no doubt the product could do both, its just a matter of skill level.

So that that point I had about I think probably 25-30 mill of thermal insulation plaster on the wall on the external walls and then I have whatever it was not pretty 5 or 10 mil of hemp Shiv plaster on the boards and a kind of mixer in the curve round the window was tricky but 'cause it was very difficult to get through the plaster finish. So it's not perfect, in a way too much time trying to get it perfect on the 1st coat, I think I used around 26 bags of some plaster the amounts were about right it's like a slightly shorter I guess. on the internals walls, should not so exposed I put the hemp on the 1st you know bonding the scratches, lime paint align paint and then the bonding.

I had taken the skirting boards off because of the increased thickness so had to cuu these down, as I was letting it dry, which it did quicker than I'd expected, despite being quite thick, but as my time was very short and also to note at the time it had been raining a lot and so the conditions were not perfect. Though I had also been advised not to let it dry too quickly, so it was a balance, but I did have a dehumidifier also, so it was a case of spraying to keep it moist but also letting it dry out.

So the last final part was, that as I was running out of time, I made another choice that the supplier didn't recommend. This was to used a pigment, because I just didn’t have time to wait for it to dry enough to apply paint, so i used pigments. Which introduces an unknown element for the supplier and thus reasonable that they advised against it, but I was running out of time and I could leave the natural grey finish. So I tested with small pots in terms, of amounts and plastered on the wall, which was a guessing game really, I added I think 4 spoonfuls per packet of plaster and then just tried it. I had spent some time trying to get the plastere lines in areas, but struggled around the window so probably rightly or wrongly I just decided to sponge over the final finish. Which I should have probably waited longer to do, I wasn't sure about and it wouldn’t be the finish to everyones taste but it actally fitted the building and rustic feel. Because I sponged it a little wet the grains or grit became expose so the finish was gritty, and so in areas on the chimney breast I hadn’t plastered I painted the lime wash, which also had a gritty finish to tye it all in.

[[Category:Articles_needing_more_work]]